We booked our flight from San Francisco to Tulum early in the summer. It would be our 2024 Thanksgiving escape. We spent two nights in Tulum, then reached Bacalar for a three night stay. It was a rejuvenating and heartwarming trip away from the chilling Bay Area.

Tulum

After landing, we lined up by one of the ATMs in the Tulum airport and withdrew some thousands pesos, the equivalent of about USD 150. We were unsure if credit cards would be accepted. Perhaps because of its novelty, it took us a while to figure out how the ATM worked!

The trip from Tulum airport to the city was easy. We purchased tickets at the airport with ADO bus. It was a comfortable, affordable 50 minute trip. The bus terminal in Tulum city was busy but well organized. We walked just a few blocks away and found a bike shop where we rented bikes. They were old and run down, but functional. They got us around with no issues. Biking Tulum was our way to minimize our footprint and enjoy the city at a slow pace. It turned out to be a very good idea. Tulum is a bikable city.

We reached our airbnb, part of Hotel Zamas, after biking 30 minutes. The reception at the hotel recommended against biking from the bus terminal, but we did it anyway. It was an easy ride, even with backpacks on. We did not carry trolleys since we planned to bike around. There is a bike path that goes all the way from the main road in town to the hotel zone along the coast.

Before the trip, we read that unregulated developments and construction in Tulum were cutting into the jungle. They were depleting and polluting the water supply. So we were concerned. These worries are not unfounded, and as travelers we are a contributing cause: guilty as charged! We hope Tulum will find the right balance between its tourism-based economy and respecting nature, its people and history. It is a magical place to see.

The decor and architecture of our airbnb were sleek, modern but also with a hint of tradition. The use of concrete was thoughtful and creative. Almost everything was carved out of concrete: the shower, sinks in the bathroom and kitchen, kitchen counters, shelves, the bed frame. We realized: you can do so much with concrete! It is simple, easy to clean, stylish, durable and functional. This article explains why concrete was such a popular furniture material in Mexico.

The next morning we biked to the Tulum ruins. We first entered a national park and were stopped by some officers. Having heard about unpleasant encounters with the authorities in Mexico, we were worried we would be asked to surrender wallets and credit cards. But the officers were professional and kind. They charged the entrance fee and let us go.

Along the road to the ruins, we found several spots to access the beach: think of Caribbean white sand beaches and expansive ocean views. It was early in the morning. We had the beach all to our selves!

The Tulum ruins are perched eastwards on the Carribean Sea. Some of the ancient city dwellings and religious temples are still standing. Carvings and paintings are visible on some of the facades, and giant lizards were popping up everywhere to enjoy the sun. One of the walking trails within the archaeological site goes by a protected beach for sea turtles nesting. The crowds started to storm in and the sun became unrelenting, but the Tulum ruins remained idyllic and certainly worth a visit.

Later in the day, we had an overpriced lunch – the equivalent of USD 50 dollars for a couple of tacos! – at one of the resorts along the beach. The host was chatty and friendly. We enjoyed some lazy swimming and sunbathing afterwards, and then biked back to Tulum city.

After ice cream, we decided to go to cenote Crystal. It wasn’t an easy ride since some areas we biked through were sketchy. But we made it there before closing and enjoyed a dive in the clear waters. We spotted a turtle. Since it was late, we had the cenote all for ourselves. What a treat!

As we biked back to Hotel Zamas, we stopped by a large supermarket, Chedraui. It was stocked with an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables, meat, seafood and freshly baked breads and pastries. We bought a few items to cook dinner — octopus, fruits and vegetables, bread — and did not spend much, at least compared to our overpriced lunch!

Bacalar

There was so much else to see in Tulum: visit other cenotes and explore the Sian Ka’an nature reserve. We will do it another time! We planned to go south to Bacalar. We returned our bikes and hopped on an ADO bus. It was a three hour journey.

Bacalar is less developed than Tulum. The airbnb we booked was right on the lagoon, away from the hustle and bustle of town. We loaded up with food at a local supermarket, Super Aki, and then made our way to the airbnb. Our host recommended against renting bikes because we would have to ride through the jungle, the roads would be muddy and impassable, and the mosquitoes would attack us unrelentingly. How dramatic!

So we hired a taxi instead. While it was comfortable, this decision turned out to be a mistake. Since our airbnb was on the lagoon away from the main road, it was 300/400 pesos one-way from the town of Bacalar. Transportation costs added up quickly. The road to the airbnb was not muddy or impassable and mosquitoes were not unrelating at all.

Our accommodation was pleasant and secluded, overlooking the lagoon. The dogs at the property greeted us cheerfully. We had afternoon snacks, including fresh queso we had picked up at the supermarket. We ended the day with a short kayaking trip in the lagoon before sunset.

The next morning we walked through the “jungle”, a rather pleasant walk. We returned to the main road and hired a taxi to town. This time it was only 100 pesos–so we saved some! We had an abundant lunch at El Taco Loco, a restaurant popular with locals and tourists. We had a lot of food: tacos, a whole fish, empanadas, desert. It was good, though not memorable.

We walked to the center of town and came across the Ecoparque Bacalar. We were hesitant at first, but after paying a small entrance fee, we were not disappointed. We walked on a wooden platform that stretches out into the water and reached an area in the lagoon with shallow, crystalline waters and white sand. It was magical, and not too crowded either. After a swim, we explored the town some more, had ice cream and then walked in the direction of Cenote Negro and Cenote Azul.

We walked into a fenced area by a school to reach cenote Negro, but a guard screamed at us and told us to get out. We did not ask for permission – the guard said – if we could enter and so we disrespected their authority. We could only visit the cenote with a tour. Fair enough! Cenote Azul was further away, and getting there was a bit of a walk. When we finally reached it, the cenote was underwhelming. We found a free access point by one side, but it smelled bad and looked dirty. So we walked back, disappointed. The locals seem to like it though. We found out later we entered from the wrong side.

The next day we booked a sailing tour with Aloha Bacalar. It was a private tour on a small catamaran sailing across the lagoon. Sailing was a pleasant, relaxing experience: as the motor was off, the gentle sound of the water breaking up against the boat was soothing. Unfortunately, there was little wind for sailing. The motor broke at some point and we had to go back. We did have a chance to swim in some beautiful, shallow crystalline waters and see Cenote Negro, but not much else. They still insisted to charge us the full amount, and after some haggling, we got a bit of a discount. We definitely do not recommend a sailing tour with them!

The next day we had to return to Tulum airport. We hired a taxi. The bus would have been cheaper, but our flight was leaving too early for the bus schedule.

We enjoyed Tulum and Bacalar very much. The locals are warm and caring; the taxi drivers kind; the rhythm of life slow; the weather gorgeous; the natural and cultural wonders memorable. We hope to be back sometime soon!