We recently moved to Phoenix, Arizona. We could not wait any longer: we had to explore the Grand Canyon! We did some trip planning and settled on the following itinerary for the end of May:

• Day 1: drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff, night at Nordic Village
• Day 2: small hikes, second night at Nordic Village
• Day 3: drive to Grand Canyon, South rim, night at Mather Campground
• Day 4: hike down to the Colorado River and back, second night at Mather Campground
• Day 5: hike along the South rim, third night at Mather Campground
• Day 6: drive from Grand Canyon to Prescott, night at Potato Patch Campground
• Day 7: drive back to Phoenix with stops in Jerome and Alcantara vineyards

Arizona Nordic Village (days 1 and 2)

Arizona Nordic Village is located in the the Coconino National Forest, about 15 miles northwest of Flagstaff along Highway 180 to Grand Canyon.

There are a few yurts for overnight stay, some are close to the parking lot, others are further into the forest, 30 minutes hiking or so.  We stayed in Lupine yurt further in the forest. We had complete privacy, a wooden stove to keep us warm, and a propane outdoor grill for cooking. Cost is about $40-50 per night. We stayed for two nights.

The area is popular in the winter for cross-country skiing, but it is also beautiful in the summer without snow. The most scenic hike leads up to Morning Glory yurt on Porcupine loop. At the end of the trail, climb up a steep hill behind the yurt and enjoy panoramic views of Humphrey’s Peak and the surrounding hills. The views are exceptional at sunset and sunrise.

Mather Campground (days 3, 4, and 5)

The South rim of the Grand Canyon is the most touristy and offers several accommodations, lodges and hotels. We preferred to stay at a campground, more economical and authentic. We stayed at Mather Campground for 3 nights. There are campgrounds on the North rim, but it takes longer to get there.

Mather Campground has all the essentials: picnic table, fire ring, shared bathrooms and a water pump for drinking water, but no electric. The campsites are reasonably distanced, but there is little privacy. You can hear people snoring or turning around in their tents. Still, people are usually respectful of others.

It gets cold at night, even in May or June, and it’s hotter during the day. So be prepared for the temperature change and pack appropriately. A warm sleeping bag or an extra blanket is a must. Lighting a fire at night will keep you warm before going to bed.

Hiking down to the Colorado river and back (day 4)

We decided to hike down to the Colorado river and back the same day. This is usually not recommended unless you are physically fit. We were initially concerned about the risks that the hike would entail, but it all went well. We started early in the morning to beat the heat. We woke up at 3:30 AM and were at Bright Angel trailhead at 4:30 AM when we started our descent into the canyon.

The Bright Angel trail down to the Colorado river is well-marked and can be divided in four sections (here is a map from AllTrails):

• First water station, 1.5 miles
• Second water station, 3 miles
• Indian Garden, third water station, 6 miles
• Colorado river, river resthouse, 10 miles, no drinking water
• Phantom Ranch, fourth water station, 12 miles

The descent to the Colorado River was straightforward. The trail is all downhill. We stopped at the water stations along the trail and we got to the river at about 8:00 AM, starting at 4:30 AM. We did not rush it. The elevation change from the top to the bottom is about 1,300m/4,300 ft. There is also a significant change in temperature. It gets hotter as one goes down further into the canyon.

When we reached the Colorado river, we submerged ourselves into the river. The water is cold, but also refreshing and rejuvenating. We gave our feet some rest and love.

The trail continues along the river toward Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel campground, both located on the north side of the river. This part of the trail is very scenic and relatively flat with just small climbs.

There are two bridges that connect the north and south side of the river: Silver Bridge and Black Bridge. They are both suspension bridges. Black Bridge is very interesting from an engineering point of view. Although it is a bit out of the way, it is worth a visit!

We started to head back to the South rim at about 1PM from the Colorado river resthouse. The hike uphill can be challenging, especially in the middle of the day when the sun is unforgiving. We took our time, made several stops for water and snacks. We made it back at about 6PM.

Needless to say, the views are incredible. There is no better way to explore the Grand Canyon than to make it all the way down to the river and back. Seeing the canyon from the top provides only a limited experience.

Alternatives

On the trail, we met several people who hiked from the North rim to the South rim in one day. This is perhaps an even better way to experience the canyon. We were told that the North rim is more beautiful than the South rim. We plan to hike rim-to-rim another time!

Another option is to hike to the river via the South Kaibab Trail and then back via the Bright Angel trail. The South Kaibab trail is shorter and steeper, and does not have any intermediate water stations. So it is best to hike this trail downhill and use the Bright Angel trail uphill when one is more likely to need extra water.

Hiking the South Rim (day 5)

After a challenging hike the day before, we decided to take it easy and walk along the south rim trail from Mather Campground all the way to Hermit trailhead. It took us about 5 hours to complete the hike. We took the bus back (red line). The bus dropped us off at the village. We then walked back to the campground.

The South rim trail is nearly flat, with occasional climbs, but offers incredible views of the canyons from different angles. Definitely recommended. You can also see the Colorado river, as well as the rapids, at some spots during the trail.

Watson Lake, Prescott (day 6)

After leaving Grand Canyon, we drove south to Prescott along highway 89. We stopped at Watson lake. It is a picturesque lake with smooth rounded, reddish rocks all around. We hiked the loop trail along the lake. The scenery is beautiful, but the summer heat can be unforgiving. The trail took about 2 hours to complete. There are a few scrambles along the trail as you have to make your way across some rocks formations, but nothing too challenging. The trail marks can be confusing, so it’s best to download a map from AllTrails.

Potato Patch Campground (day 6)

We spent the night at Potato Patch campground on Mingus Mountain, between Jerome and Prescott along state route 89A. The campsites are reasonably sized and are equipped with a fire pit and a leveled area to pitch a tent. There are compostable, shared toilets and a pump for drinking water. If you stop along route 89A, you can enjoy spectacular views at the sunrise and sunset, and views of the valley below.

Jerome (day 7)

Along route 89A is the quaint little town of Jerome, perched along Cleopatra hill. The views from the town down to the Verde Valley are beautiful.

The town now counts just about 400 residents, but million of visitors drive by every year. In its better days, Jerome used to be a more populous town whose economy was flourishing because of the mining industry. Today there are many wine tasting establishments — we tried Caduceus — as well as art shops, boutiques and restaurants. We were itching for BBQ, so we tried Bobby D’s BBQ.

Alcantara Vineyards (day 7)

Before heading back to Phoenix, we stopped at Alcantara Vineyards on the Verde River. The vineyard is easily accessible from highway 260 turning onto E Thousand Trails Rd. Wine tasting is about $20 per person for a flight of five wines. There is outdoor seating, beautiful views and the possibility to explore the vineyard and the river. They also organize tours and kayaking activities.

This was our last stop before returning to city life!