For Easter 2025, we visited the Tremiti Islands. We stayed in the small coastal town of Termoli, located in the Molise region of southern Italy, right at the border with Puglia. From there, we took an early morning ferry to San Nicola, one of the main islands in the Tremiti archipelago, which is part of Gargano National Park. The archipelago consists of a few islands. San Nicola is the historical center, full of older structures, while San Domino is larger and more populated, also known for its beaches and natural beauty.

We disembarked at San Nicola and followed a steep, cobbled path that climbs the hill in a series of switchbacks. It led us first to what looked like a fully preserved, miniature village. The island was a confinement place during the fascist regime. The village is now abandoned and quiet, with just a restaurant and some elderly residents. We then reached the Medieval church of Santa Maria a Mare, a charming place with a long history and a beautiful facade. But it bears the scars of history. You can see the damage left by cannon fire from the English navy etched into the facade. Or so some say. There is a beautifully preserved mosaic inside the church and in the back one can explore its cloisters.

Continuing on, we followed a trail that runs along the edge of the island, with dramatic sheer cliffs and stunning sea views. We passed an old watchtower and remnants of fortifications, perhaps a hint of the island’s strategic past. As the trail flattened toward the far end of the island, we found ourselves surrounded by green meadows and wildflowers, with sweeping views of the deep blue Adriatic sea on all sides. We encountered a modern Lybian mausoleum which has an interesting — and tragic! — history. There isn’t easy access to the sea from the trail, which ends in a cemetery. It was a calming walk, a beautiful and unexpected experience.

We walked back to the ferry dock and waited about an hour for a small fishing boat that would take us across to the other island, San Domino. Time was short, so after disembarking, we followed the main road uphill for a while, then turned onto a steep trail that led down to a small beach. The water was crystal clear, but the beach itself felt neglected, with a slightly run-down atmosphere. Still, it was peaceful, with only a few people around. We did run into some loud youngsters along the trail who went down some other beach. We had hoped to stay overnight on the island, but all accommodations were booked. The Italian singer Lucio Dalla once had a house here, as he was captivated by the place.

Back on the mainland, we wanted to enjoy one last good meal before heading back to the United States. The night before, we tried a highly rated place, but it was a disappointment. It was a self-styled gourmet restaurant that tried to fuse Italian cuisine with modern American trends. The result felt confused and mismatched. This evening, we chose differently: a traditional seafood restaurant. And not highly rated! Its name: Trattoria Nonna Maria. It was the right choice. We started with some local antipasti from Termoli, followed by pasta with seafood. The highlight, though, was the tuna steak: incredibly fresh, perfectly cooked. The server recommended it as the tuna had just been caught that morning. It was a simple taste of the Adriatic to end our trip.